The standard method
This page should be read in conjunction with the "Artificial Swarm" page that can be accessed by the button top left.
The method described below is what has become the "standard" version of the artificial swarm. There are others, all based on the same principle, but with slight variations. What happens in an artificial swarm is the colony is split into two, by removing the parent colony to a different spot in the apiary and replacing it with a fresh empty hive. The queen and one frame, without queen cells, is taken from the parent colony and placed in the new brood box, which is filled up with frames of comb or foundation. The parent colony has queen cells that need reducing to one and a one frame gap that is closed up by moving the existing combs, the resulting gap being filled with comb or foundation.
This is supposed to replicate a swarming colony because:-
As you can see, this is a rather poor interpretation of a swarmed situation, due to both colonies being out of balance, but if the beekeeper is careful it works.
As with all things in beekeeping, I advise understanding what is happening in the operation before attempting it. To just do something "by numbers", without understanding what you are trying to achieve will probably end in failure. I set out how to do it in stages below.
On finding swarm Q/Cs in a colony......
If there is a heavy nectar flow, the new colony may store nectar very quickly, because it has little brood to feed for about 4 days. If you have given drawn comb in the brood box, they may fill this with nectar, so crowding the queen out. It is advisable to give supers of empty comb.
I have never used an artificial swarm myself for swarm control purposes, although I have used them for different reasons. I have helped other beekeepers on many occasions for controlling swarms.